Portfolio
controlled chaos
Credits
Photographer - @j.lambert.photo
Model - @ellie.ballxx
Makeup - @harriet_hairandmakeup
RESEARCH
discovering d-e-c-o-n-s-t-r-u-c-t-i-o-n
In the initial stages of the design development process, I was not particularly looking at deconstruction. The primary research gathered was focused on Ancient Greece, but unexpectedly a peculiar house caught my attention. The manner in which the paint cracked and fell exposing, quite poetically, all the layers underneath resonated with the disintegration of architectural structures and echoed the dichotomy between ancient and contemporary Athens. As stated in “FASHION THE WHOLE HISTORY”: “decomposition and disintegration are themes… identified as characteristics of deconstruction fashion."
The exploratory deconstruction workshop we did as part of the Design Development and Research module played a very important part in my design process. It allowed me to experiment with fabric and shape in a very organic and intuitive manner, offering me a very different approach to designing a sartorial product.
From left to right, all the stages are documented; from the deconstructed trench coat combined with the stripped shirt, to the changes of a basic coat pattern, through the toiling process and lastly the finished garment.
The back of the coat, I thought was the ideal place to reference the drape of the traditional ancient Greek togas by placing six equally distanced pleats from the centre back. It added shape and movement to the garment, achieving overall a more dramatic effect.
For the blue fabric, I wanted to evoke the cracking and the decaying of the built environment I was looking at, from my primary research. Visiting the Worthing Museam and Art Gallery, I discovered the work of Bob Kershaw. Vases which through a certain process created this beatifully haunting cracking effect, which I traced and manipulated in Illustrator to create the print negative. Futhermore, as environmental issues and sustainable practices are becoming the STANDARD in the industry, I decided to naturally dye the fabric using indigo.
For the stripped fabric, I wanted to achieve a vintage, retro overall effect, infusing it with some cultural element. The meandros, which is the name of the repeating square border, a widely known greek motif, was analysed, de-constructed and re-constructed, in order to be laser cut, embroidered and screen printed creating a very experimental fabric.
While designing the coat, one of my objectives was to focus on the details of the coat. Whether it was the cut out shapes exposing a panel of the same fabric used as lining, a small recycled care label sprinkled in, the contrast top stitching or a sheer back flap, every element was carefully done.
In an age when fast fashion and the throw away culture are still at peak, I believe that creating a garment that offers the wearer an unique experience would make them cherish the product therefore prolonging the wardrobe life of a clothing item.
